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wow, that thing is a beast! looks more like a power-tool than a trainer.
Hello Ray,
what are your plans for the release date of the review?
‘looking forward to it.
Man I look forward to this test. Best thing in the trainer department for years I think. No tyre slip and silent.
Well I showed this to my wife & still didn’t think it was that silent….. I guess I will have to do some big gear, slow cadence work….
Is it one of those that once you have it set up you wouldn’t want to move it? I am trying to figure out if this is something that can be popped in a cardboard and brought out every evening or if it’s likely to become a permanent piece of furniture over winter.
No, it’s not quite as silence as it sounds on a busy trade show floor – hence my skepticism there a bit.
As for moving it, you can certainly move it. But I think you’ll find that (and true of any trainer), that gets old pretty quick.
But – my unscientific comparison of your trainer videos shows a significant noise reduction because of the elimination of the tyre squeal at least. So I would guess i’ts a matter of choosing a quiet casette, low gear and high watt resistance?
Mhhh, 10 dB less than Kickr and Computrainer. That’s app. half of the noise. Still not silent, but far better compared to the other trainers in your former video.
Remember, the Muin doesn’t control your resistance. It just shows your power. To control your resistance you have to change gears (it’s a fluid trainer).
Nice bike. (Same as mine)
I have an Elite Muin ordered and being delivered to me this weekend.
I can’t wait.
Please let us know what your impression is regarding the noise level.
Seems pretty quiet to me. Maybe i’m seeing it wrongly but the noise of your shoe clicking in your pedal is not much different than the noise of the trainer in operation. Anyway, equally important to me, how was the feel? It looks like you are pedalling pretty smoothly on it…anyway, i’ve ordered one and hopefully will get it soon
Seems quiet to me. Maybe i’m seeing it wrongly but the noise of your shoe clicking in your pedal is not much different than the noise of the trainer in operation. Anyway, equally important to me, how was the feel? It looks like you are pedalling pretty smoothly on it…anyway, i’ve ordered one and hopefully will get it soon
Hi,
do you think that would be an interesting trainer if we already have a crank-based powermeter (probably more accurate than their system) ? Do you see any objections to that ?
I am looking for a trainer that is very quiet and the fact you don’t have to use a wheel make it even better than the usual trainer (no tire slipping). And much better than a “Kettler Ergo race”-like bike since you can use your own Garmin (or any other ANT+ bike computer that works with your powermeter).
Do you think they will release a version without electronics for those who don’t need it or already have a powermeter (like me) ?
It’s price (430euros in France) is pretty low considering a basic Home trainer (without electronics) is 150euros.
If you’ve already got a PM, then a portion of the value of the Muin isn’t going to pan out for you.
So then it comes down to whether or not you find the quiet aspect quiet-enough for you. I don’t expect them to produce a version without the electronics, because really, the electronics are simply just an ANT+ speed sensor, which has a near-negligible wholesale cost for them.
Nico! Where in France did you find that price?
BIKEINN. But I didn’t look further. Now it seems pretty cheap compared to other shops. And “sur commande (disponibilité inconnue)”, so not in stock.
OK, I ordered from Bikespeed.Ch. Paid 600CHF for it. Pretty similar price to BikeINN once I take into account postage & swiss import duty & charges.
Thanks for getting back!
Hallo,
I’m really looking forward for you review. It seems top for a system not controlling resistance. The ANT+ connectivity is what I dislike. I’d rather like to connect it to my power2max to have full (and correct) information about my wattage than having it calculated in someway.
br and thanks in advance for your review!
P.
Hi Ray,
really looking forward to your review as I plan to get this as my first ever trainer — max. silence is what I’m mainly looking for. What I don’t get is where does the cassette come from? If I get the unboxing pictures right there is no cassette contained, when I compare this to Wahoo Kickr there is one in there. Do I have to buy a separate cassette for this, or how did you get it running?
Thanks,
Stefan
It didn’t include one. I happened to have one in my closet actually, which I was pretty excited about.
My understanding was that they were producing two variants – one with, and one without.
Do keep in mind that the KICKR and this shouldn’t really be compared. They’re totally different in functionality. The KICKR can control the resistance, this cannot. That’s just sorta the beginning there.
The product is supplied with a freehub (shimano 9,10,11 speed compatible) while for the campags you need to buy seperately the compatible hub.
Cassette is not included.
And price point is substantially different (lower) than KICKR.
And Turbo Muin is compatible with the new myETraining app.
link to itunes.apple.com
Tks
Monica
Ray, I understand that if we would want to compare like for like with the Wahoo Kickr, it is not really the Elite Muin that fits the bill, but rather the Elite REAL series, ilke the REAL-AXIOM or REAL E-MOTION
These are really high end. Do you think you wil be looking at those? According to their website, those are really out of this world!
thx
6co
I may. My general concern at this point is any high-end trainer that I’d want to spend money on needs to be open, or commit to being open.
I’ve just done an easy hour on my new Elite Muin.
It’s hard to believe how silent this piece of equipment is.
The first noise I heard when I started to turn the cranks was the swish of fluid from the disruption of whatever goes on in the resistance chamber and from then on it was the noise from my Dura Ace 9000 drivetrain – which had me almost convinced I needed some lubricant.
The noise was similar to what you get on spinning bike in a silent room. Or similar to when you turn the cranks on a workstand to clean the chain through the rear mech.
I can’t report on the Elite software compatible on the iPad as I don’t have the ANT+ dongle required to decode the information from the speed and cadence sensors – (I had to buy these separately buy the way)
Hi Alan, thanks for short review! I am also considering this one as my Elite Qubo Hydromag is totally not as quiet as expected and now I will be moving to a different appartment where quietness becomes priority number one…
Can you also share experience with vibration of the thing? With my Qubo, with or without dedicated trainer tire, I get quite noticeable amount of vibration to the whole bike, which also generates noise… (I am also using washer mashine anti vibration mats under it, but it helps only until certain speed…).
Ich bin sehr gespannt auf einen ausführlichen Test ……hoffentlich erzeugt der Turbo Muin so wenig Vibrationen das man in in der Wohnung nutzen kann ohne andere zu stören . Ich glaube von der Lautstärke her kann man gut mit leben .
/// Google Translated ///
I am very excited to …… hopefully generates a detailed test of the turbo Muin so little vibration that you can use in the apartment without disturbing others. I think of the volume here you can live with
Really keen on one of these but want to know what the highest resistance is like. In the 53 x 11 what kind of cadence would you be pushing? Like to do big gear work.
On the elite homepage is a image that shows that 53×11 with cad. 100 requires more than 2000W.
Hi,
Is it possible to use this Elite to work at 50 rpm for a medium biker with 53×11 ?
I’m using TurboMuin since few days with my Campi Record 11 speed and it’s extremely quite and powerful.
Hi guys noted comparison with Kickr and Computrainer – 10 dB less: it means 10 times less noise than them!
For this reason I heard only sounds of my Campi.
At the begging I had to replace Shimano freehub with Campi one.
A difference of 10 dB is 10x the power but in apparent volume that works out to 2x. To produce only half the volume of previous trainers that were considered acceptably quiet is a pretty big deal. That said, I know that I cannot clean a chain (spinning the crank backwards) before heading out on a morning ride without complaints from others in the house. So its not “library reading room” quiet. But ya, its frickin quiet for a trainer.
I disagree that this product is so different to electronic ergos (Kickr, Computrainer, etc) as to not be comparable. Ultimately, they all result in a stationary bike for training. Sure, there are definite benefits to a device which can control the resistance automatically, but it also isn’t necessary to train at a high level.
I spent many hours on a sponsor’s Computrainer and had to settle for a basic fluid trainer when I lost that toy. I really thought I would not be able to do without the CT and couldn’t justify the expense to buy my own. When it was announced, I really expected I would buy a Kickr, but have held off (didn’t luck out with the 4 giveaways either, sniff!). Instead, I’ve combined TrainerRoad, a power-meter and my basic trainer. It is good enough to make it really difficult to convince myself that spending >$1000 is worth it for a few — albeit nice — features. Even for those without a power-meter, TR’s virtual power feature is a pretty good answer.
Further, I do that indoor training to ultimately perform on the road in races. Take any power session to the road and you will need have learnt how to generate the required power at the target cadence on a real drivetrain with discrete gears. The effectively continuously variable gearing of automated ergos teaches you little about how to do that. And before anyone says it, I know you can switch modes on many of these top-end electronically controlled trainers.
I think this Muin would be an absolute winner if it was slightly cheaper. In Australia, delivered that thing is still a significant purchase for me at about $750 from Wiggle. Once I get up around $1k, my brain starts saying “only $1300 and you would have a Kickr — good times!” The Muin’s saving grace for me is the noise level. I know it would not issue for me to use early or late, while the Kickr is still loud in a domestic sense.
“Sure, there are definite benefits to a device which can control the resistance automatically, but it also isn’t necessary to train at a high level.”
Raising a question. How does the resistance work ? Is it possible to use a very high cadence ? Or does the resistance automatically adapt to a certain cadence and are we limited to this cadence ?
My question might be stupid!
Cadence will impact resistance. You can compensate for that (to a degree) by shifting gears. Ultimately, ‘speed’ is what drives resistance on fluid trainers like Muin – basically, just like outdoors on a flat surface.
Hallo,
Does anybody know if it’s possible to have all the relevant data on a bike computer like Garmin Edge? So to have one file on my trainingspeaks-account?
Cadence from Garmin Cadence Sensor
Heart Rate from ANT+ Heart Rate sensor
Wattage from power2max
AND actual speed and distance from Elite Turbo Muin
The first three are obvious but I also want to have the speed and distance on my trainings platform. Or do I have all this in the App from Elite?
Thanks and br, Pat
Hi,
I just got my TurboMuin today, but I can’t connect the Ant+? How can the TurboMuin send data to the Ant+? Maybe a stupid question? But thanks anyway.
/Morten
Any feedback on the road feel of the Turbo Muin? Compared to the Lemond Revolution?
Hi guys,
I’m using TurboMuin 3 times per week in this period.
Road feel is perfect because the pedalling is smooth in all conditions (high rpms with lowest gears or low rpms with higher gears).
Actually I don’t have Elite APP but I’ve understood that with an ANT+ speed/cadence sensor applied on Turbomuin APP is able to calculate number of rotations of internal flywheel, so it elaborates power datas in according to the speed.
ANT+ HR belt can be paired with APP for monitoring HR frequency. Iphone receives ANT+ datas using an ANT+ dongle.
I am not sure where you guys are getting your Turbo Muin’s from but I just got this from the store my order is with “It is unfortunately not good. The CH-importer now has just received 15 pieces. 1 piece comes to us. This unit is for a customer waiting for some time. Unfortunately, neither elite nor the CH-importer can tell when the next shipment arrives.”
Think I need to buy a Wahoo Kickr
I got mine from Dave Mellor Cycles. UK store.
Hi there. Does the Wahoo sensor key come with the TurboMuin or it is sold separately? Thanks
The sensors and the ANT+ key is sold separate. More expense unfortunately.
It’s not clear on any sites I could find. :(
anyone has already experience how good the Muin s for intervall training. I mean how easy or hard is it to hold a certain wattage. I have to say the Muin would be my first trainer and I stiklkl unsure about buying the Muin or a Wahoo.
To get power do I need to buy this separate ant+ speed and cadence sensor? So on top of the unit I need to buy that, a ant + dongle, pay for my e training app, a cassette. It’s not looking much cheaper than a kickr anymore.
That’s correct, without the ANT+ portions you won’t get power.
& the kickr comes with a shimano cassette?
Correct.
Guess I should’ve waited for your detailed review DC. I just opened my Turbo Muin (which I in my mind wasted a few months waiting for) & feel a bit p*ssed about it. Nothing but extras to make it anything like as good as the Wahoo. On top is the cost of a cassette £25 + ant + dongle for iPad £50 (which needs to be stacked on top of an adaptor as all my apple gear takes the new charger) + now it needs a speed sensor on top (which sticks to the side of the frame in some inelegant way) £40 + my training app subscription £10. So we are up to an extra £125 to make this thing do all the bs Elite are shouting about.
Just had my first spin on the muin. Here are my initial thoughts:
1. Noise–it’s not silent. Relatively quiet compared to other turbo trainer options yes but crazy quiet it is not.
2. Feel & resistance–good road feel & not wanting in the resistance department. I am running a compact chain set & 12-25 cassette & am nowhere close to feeling like I can out power the thing.
3. Stability–good, heavy solid construction. However, I have to say that I am hesitant to get out of the saddle & give it some proper heft. My nervousness isn’t linked specifically to the turbo muin but to direct drive connection systems in general. Perhaps someone can put my mind at ease–is my 800g frame at risk of damage to the drop outs from out of the saddle sprinting (which normally comes with side ways movement)?
my drop out snapped… 3 time riding the trainer. my frame was 3 years old.. and probable did more than 40000km on it.. so dont know if the bike was too old.. or the trainer is shit.. need to wait 2 months now before my new frame-set arrives. mixed feelings…..
DC I have the exact same speed/cadence sensor you have been supplied in the photo there. Can you explain to me how you managed to place the speed sensor on the drive side but still place the cadence sensor (they are connected by a wire) on the non-drive side? I cannot use the cadence sensor on the drive side as there is insufficient clearance between the chain & the crank arm to allow for placement of a magnet.
This whole set up is looking rather cobbled together.
Hi Ray,
Thanks for the video! Sound level looks good. To me, it seems that almost all noise comes from the drivetrain, and the trainer is not contributing (much) to the overall noise level. I know you had limited time with the CycleOps Silencer, but would you say that the Muin generates considerably less noise, or they are at the same ballpark level?
Also, it seems you have a new version of the Pioneer PM with the DA 9000 cranks. Any timeline for the review? For the Rotor Power review, are you planning to do with the SW8 firmware, or waiting for a newer version?
Thank you and Merry Christmas for you and the Girl!
I received my Elite Muin a week ago.
Coming off of the Kurt Kinetic, a few notables:
1. Not as quiet as you’d think, but that’s generally from the drivetrain/cassette/chain.
2. Slightly more resistance than the KK.
3. Very easy to set up.
4. Heavier than the KK. Not really very portable like the KK.
5. Not having to re inflate the tire is a nice option. Paired with a Kreitler fork stand, I’m riding sans wheels.
6. Still undecided on which has more of a “road like” feel. Very close.
For most athletes, I’d suggest the KK at less than half the price, unless having the quietest trainer (with less vibration) is paramount in the decision making process.
I’d echo those comments & add:
1. Not that quiet
2. Expensive for what it is.
3. Train with power is a bit of a con. You’re just getting a power profile like trainer road. We don’t even know if it’s remotely accurate.
4. To fully use the muin lots of on top set up costs that you need to account for: cassette, speed/cadence sensor (even though I already have a Garmin one), ant+ dongle, apple lightening adaptor (for those of us who have the latest apple kit). £130-150.
I waited several months & missed that training period. I mean seriously who doesn’t ship a turbo trainer until late November……
In summary either spend the extra and buy a wahoo kickr or spend much less & get something more basic.
Got mine. For 385euros shipped (pretty good deal! the price went up to 480euros a few minutes after).
So, yes, it’s not as quiet as I would have expected. Actually, the Muin is very very quiet, but not my drivetrain! (I am gonna have to lube the chain a bit more to see if that makes the whole better).
Regarding it’s price : to me, it’s the best deal because you don’t have to use your rear wheel, so no need to have a dedicated tire, no tire slippage and so on. Regarding the accessories : everybody already has a spare cassette… Regarding the ANT+ speed sensor that you need if you want to have your ride distance, I bought a Bontrager speedtrap (made to be intergrated in the Trek Madone fork) for 17euros that I will glue (I hope it will work, but no big concerns about that) on the Muin so it will permanently be on it. I had a sunto speed sensor and after hours trying to pair it with GoldenCheetah, I figured out it was ANT compatible (not ANT+) so it was not possible to pair it with my ANT+ usb dongle!
I have a crank-based powermeter so for me, the Muin is perfect. I use GoldenCheetah so I don’t need to spend extra money to get their proprietary software (plus I don’t have an up-to-date iphone).
Good price!
I like the sound of your Bontrager speedtrap sticking direct to the muin. If that works let me know please. It sounds like a more elegant solution than what I currently have.
I bought all the extras to set up using the elite app on iPad. However, I’ve now ordered a Suunto USB ant+ as I’m going to try out trainer road as they have now added the muin virtual power profile. I’m hoping the Suunto can receive cadence & HR from my Garmin sensors & then speed from the other.
I’d be really interested Nico if you could do a power reading comparison of your SRM vs the elite app orTrainer road?
Fwiw, I’ll be putting up some power comparison data on the two. I was waiting to get the final production unit, which I swapped out for a few days ago, just in the odd case something changed. I might have time Tuesday night when I get back for a few hours, otherwise it’ll be a week later when I return from CES. I’ll likely just be doing a power/speed pyramid and will capture Vector/Quarq/Stages data against speed. I’ll include all the raw WASP data like I usually do for power meter comparison tests.
Good news for TrainerRoad fans.
The Muin has been added to their list of devices compatible with virtual power.
For those looking for power curve data, see below. Done with a Elite Muin (final production unit) + their SPD/CAD sensor + Quarq Elsa + Stages PM. Recorded to three different units (WASP, 2xEdge 800’s), and validated speeds across the board matched the app. Full details inside the read-me of sorts in the zip file.
link to dcrainmaker.com
Are there any tools that can take a power curve and annotate something like tcx file? I have an “old” kurt road machine (and the pdf of the power curse), a tcx file and its seems like I shouldn’t need to buy an inRide. Not to mention dealing with magnates flying across the room.
Alternatively, do you know where I could find a trackpoint from a tcx file that contains power information?
With TrainerRoad you don’t need to buy the inRide. Ultimately, the whole ‘middleware’ piece is where people charge to make money and convert that information into usable power. That includes the correlation between X speed and Y wattage.
I stuck the figures into excel and compared with Elite’s quoted figures of 110W@20k, 700W@40k, 2150W@60k and got a reasonable correllation.
Your data seems to have a step at about 25kmh, below that elite over estimates above that they’re under your figures. I expect that their estimates are a pretty decent benchmark even if not bang on.
I’m interested in doing another test, but this time, doing it after 45-minutes of riding (in other words, post a regular workout). In playing with things on Friday for fun, I went ahead and kept the same cadence and the same gearing and just ‘let it ride’ for the first 12 minutes. I saw a pretty dramatic shift (about 80w) over the course of that time period for warm-up. After that, it calmed down, but still appeared to be climbing perhaps a few watts per minute.
I may also do a test where I simply continue that exact same thing – maintain cadence and gearing and see how long until things ‘level out’ wattage wise.
Did you already do such a longer session? In my experience the warm up time takes longer than 15 minutes. I usually warm up 30 minutes. After that I am not sure if it is my exhaustion or some continuing power shifts that make my hart rate rise.
Yeah, I’m seeing mixed results on actual warm-up times. In conversations with Elite about it.
Hi Ray,
> done with a Elite Muin (final production unit)
could you give the serial number (S/N) of tested unit?
Because I see a big diffrence in my e-trainig app between 10469 and 10470 serial number.
Thanks
Hi Ray, from my correspondence with Elite on the app power they said the following (note I was getting crazy low numbers like you too–I worked out my FTP to be like 115w):
Dear Peter,
have occurred as early as 10 days ago, the existence of a bug THE APP as they are loaded with detailed maps of power the opposite of the serial number. By inserting a low serial number 10100, for example, you load the right powers.
We have already taken steps to correct the APP that is pending approval in the APP store and then it will be possible to download free of charge as any other APP, in the meantime you can work around by entering a serial number below.
However, I have since given up on the app & moved to trainer road. However, there I would say that the virtual power estimate is too high! It would be great if you could check that as well.
It’s all a bit goldie locks & the 3 bears. One is too low, the other I think too high, would be great to get one just right.
Thanks for the tip on the serial. I’ll swap it and give it a whirl.
As for TR, yup, they got my data a few minutes before I posted here. They had requested it initially so that they could update theirs, as they were a bit skeptical on the accuracy of the curve they had from some other source. Hopefully this is more accurate…
If the app is right I either ride like a 9 yr old or if trainer road is right I should mail in my data to Team Sky & see if they have a spot for me.
I have to say the Elite customer service have been good though. They mailed me some small magnets to try to get my cadence sensor working (wire on the unit too short)–which actually worked as I was able to place it all the way to the end of my non-drive crank. After that they then sent me an a complimentary sensor with extended cable which I thought was nice. Wish they had designed it in the first place so this wasn’t needed however!
How do you find the resistance ray? I find it hard to push the 50 chain ring with +80 cadence & no cross over.
Hmm, I find resistance ‘normal’. I’m riding a compact so I can have a bit more flexibiliy there.
The thing that annoys me is the cadence combo/magnet setup. I’m using all the stock stuff, and if I’m in the smallest ring in the back and biggest in front, the cadence magnet on my crank-arm actually touches the chain (because, it has to be on that side to make it all work). Grrr.
The cadence speed sensor thing is a real cock up by Elite. So much so that they sent me for free a new unit with a modified connecting cable that they extended. This enabled me to run the cadence sensor on the non drive side away from the side.
Glad it’s not just me that was finding that trying to run the cadence magnet on the drive side crank was resulting in it clipping the chain constantly due to magnetic attraction!
I mean didn’t Elite check this stuff before releasing this trainer!?
Hi All-
Just a quick heads up on a few items as I just heard from the Elite folks.
1) An app release went out that’s live as of today on the store. It includes a bunch of changes, but the two biggest ones are:
A) The serial number issue has been resolved, correct calibration values should now be there
B) You can now export in .TCX format – perfect for upload to anything on this planet
2) They’ve got some new speed/cadene sensors they’re working on with a modified cable length that will be applied to new units going forward. Peter above got one of those new sensors.
Have a good weekend!
Hi Ray, Anything new on the Speed/cadance sensor Elite are working on? or are there others sensors with a cable length long enough for speed and cadance.
Hey Ray. So it seems I was on to something when I was bugging Elite with emails about the power estimate being too low & the sensor cable being too short!
Out of frustration I actually sent back my Wahoo Dongle & moved over to using trainer road (which I really love).
Ray, how now is the Elite app at estimating power vs a real power meter? Does the virtual power curve to trainer road correlate with reality? I know that Chad has received files from you to modify their curve.
Doesn’t really matter. My Stages Power meter arrives on Monday……
In testing pre-today, I was seeing about 15-20% variance, depending on serial number. I have not yet tested the updated version today.
Cool. Cant wait to receive my stages & get that working with trainer road.
I think I might find reality crushing when I see how real power compares to strava and trainer road estimates…..
Hi guys,
Actually this post in DCRainmaker, is the only and most accurate forum talking about the ELite Turbo Muin of ALL the Internet!, well done guys!
Lets get into business… thanks to this post I bought my Trubo Muin 3 weeks ago and I’ve been using it since then with my 29″ Mtb.
First question, does anybody knows what should we do compensate the height difference from the front wheel to the rear? as this is a 29″ mtb using thick tires, actually the bike is 3-4 degrees tilted to the front, which is not nice to my ass! ;)
Second question, I still don’t have the app or the ANT+ adaptor for ipad and now I want to buy it. However is you go to the webpage of Wahoo now they sell Bluetooth cadence sensor. Does anyone knows if the App would work on ipad 4 communicating with Bluetooth to the cadence sensor??? this way we dont need to buy the ANT+ dongle or the lighting connector adaptor.
I use right now my Garmin Edge 810 to visualize the cadence and the Hearth rate…. would this work with the ANT+ dongle and the App??
Thanks A LOT one more time guys! really appreciated!
No, the Elite app doesn’t use support any BT sensors. It would actually be relatively easy for them to do so, since I suspect they use the latest Wahoo Fitness API (they have to use some version of it), so connecting to those devices is pretty straight forward from the WF API. In any case, none today.
With the Edge 810, if you bought the Wahoo iPhone/iPad adapter, it’ll work with the same strap. For example, last night I had my Garmin HR Strap on, connected to both the iPad (with adapter) and my Edge 810.
Hey guys – thinking of investing in one of these… how is the stability for out-of-the-saddle efforts?
For stability aspects, it’d be fine for out of the saddle efforts where you stay mostly above the frame. But if you’re really rockin’ the house, then I’d be a bit cautious as the Muin doesn’t quite have as wide a base as other trainers.
As for frame damage, I’ve been talking with a ton of bike companies lately while putting together a piece on potential trainer damage to frames (carbon and aluminum). In short, you’re fine.
The frustrating issue you will have as you have an iPad 4(like me) is that the wahoo dongle is for the old style iPad connector not the new thin lightening connector. This means you need to drop another £20 on the Apple connection adaptor.
My experience of the set up was:
1. Buy the £40 cadence/speed sensor which does not work because the cable is too short. Elite is now modifying units due to feedback from guinea pigs like me.
2. Elite app £7.50 per year & it is a pretty horrible piece of software engineering although it sounds a like a significant update was released today.
3. To connect the ant + only speed/cadence sensor to iPad 4 I had to spend £50 on a wahoo dongle + £20 on an Apple lightening connector.
After the pain & cost of connecting to the Elite app you are rewarded with wattage data which is totally inaccurate. Again an update was released today which may address this.
I gave up on the Elite app & bought a £20 Suunto Ant+ USB receiver & am now using trainer road which I rate highly.
With regards to out of the saddle efforts I am nervous to try this. Perhaps Ray or Elite can shine some light but I have a 800g frame directly connected to this thing with no give. I am worried that out of the saddle rocking motion could end up in catastrophic frame damage. Therefore, I stick to in the saddle interval work (8 or 20 mins).
Peter nice and very ironic feedback, cheers mate! ;)
From Trainerroad.com can you already select the Turbo Muin? if so, do you get exactly the same data as from the Elite My E-Training App? I mean, the same accurate / inacurate?
Thanks again
Ray, in your final review I want to see you with your Giant connected to the Muin hammering it like you are Cav!
Video of that please! ;-)
Yeah, I’ve switched to mostly using it with my Cervelo P3C, as the Giant had an 11-speed cassette on it, and was giving non-awesome shifting performance with the 9-speed cassette I put on the Muin (as one might expect). So by going back to the 9-speed on the Cervelo, I was good to go. That still gives me Quarq Elsa power + Stages power, + Muin via app.
And while I could have just installed an 11-speed on there, I’ve got the Giant mostly off doing outside PM testing with the Pioneer, Vector and PowerTap combo (swapped cassettes). And when indoors I’m on the CompuTrainer with it since I can then get CT power too (thus, four PM’s).
Nacho, yes in trainerroad they have the turbomuin power curve which they were supplied by Elite.
When I say the power measurement in the Elite app is/was inaccurate I mean it wasn’t even close. It estimated my FTP at around 110 watts. This probably has not been the case since I was 9 years old. Apparently the latest app update addresses this but as I got rid of my wahoo dongle I cannot verify.
The guys over at trainerroad feel that the power curve from Elite over estimates things & are actually working on a new curve based on Ray’s analysis. From my own experience I find the power estimate I am getting from trainer road at least consistent with the values I get from strava on HC climbing segments (14km @6% 53:30 min climb). According to Strava would put my FTP at 280w. According to my last FTP test on trainerroad my estimate as 293w.
I have a Stages power meter arriving next week so will get to the bottom of it.
Thanks Peter, VERY helpful… Im getting right now the suunto ANT+ and will work with the computer instead and Trainerroad.
Let us know your results with the Stages power meter!
Will do Nacho. Remember you still need to buy the speed/cadence sensor to transmit from the Muin. The Muin itself has no electronics etc.
I will give you guys directionally what I think of trainer road virtual power vs Stages power meter. However, there will be no graphs & detailed analysis DC Rainmaker style!
I already have the cadence/speed sensor from my Garmin Edge (ANT+)
Nacho, I’ve one too. Do you think it will work if you stick it somehow to Muin freewheel case? I didn’t try but would be keen to know. It’d mean I could sell the Elite sensor I have in place. All helps to cover the power meter I just bought!
Well right now I use the cadence meter from Garmin as it is fixed already to the bike frame and to the pedal crank, so it works fine for the cadence…. Does the Elite sensor gives you something else appart from cadence data?
Yes it gives speed. The known weight of the flywheel x speed (from sensor) is how the elite app or trainer road makes the power estimate.
You need the speed sensor otherwise you will have no other data other than cadence.
How’s the resistance? Can one do proper sprints >1500W?
I can generally get around 1,000w, but beyond that isn’t really my cup of tea. I tend to have a reasonably high FTP for longer efforts however.
New Stages power meter installed. Will do a FTP test tomorrow on trainer road & see how it stacks up vs my FTP according to the virtual power estimate for the Muin.
Off topic but installing, updating, pairing a Stages power meter is super quick and easy.
OK & the power results are in……(& please forgive me for lack of graphs & detailed analysis!)……..
20 min FTP Trainer Road Test with Elite Turbo Muin virtual power 293 watts.
& now with Stages power meter 272 watts.
So the virtual power meter on trainer road is only 7% higher (in fairness I brutalised myself to tears in this FTP test so lets call it 7-10% higher). To me that’s not bad at all!
I have no idea how the updated Elite App stacks up vs that however I suspect it is about the same given that trainerroad are using the curve Elite provided them.
Hi Peter
So is it nice to ride or like riding through mud?
What are the max watts you can put out at 50RPM cadence?
No it’s nice to ride.
I find the resistance on the high side though. For my FTP test I was running massive chain cross over from 50 chain ring up the cassette block.
If I moved it to a 50-12 gear I doubt I could move it much.
Unless you’re Hercules I wouldn’t worry about there being enough resistance.
Interesting.
So is it any good for unloaded cadence drills?
Unloaded cadence drills? What’s that?
Very low resistance and your legs spin around say up to 140-160rpm.
Yes, I actually did some of that just fine on Friday. No problems.
…This is sounding is sounding pretty good so far apart from the wheel speed measuring thing…
How much space is there between the floor and the frame?
I’m asking because I’m weighting my current trainer down to the floor with gym machine weights held on with u-bolts to the trainer frame in order to stabilise it during hard efforts.
Just need some space for the u-bolts to fit between the floor and trainer.
Between the horizontal bottom frame pieces and the floor, about 1mm, maybe 1.5mm. It’s risen up slightly because of the rubber feet.
Peter B thanks a lot for your test of accuracy.
Guys, yesterday I received my Suunto ANT+ USB for the PC, and the idea was to use it with my cadence/speed meter from Garmin ANT+.
Now Ive joined the TrainerRoad.com but I get NO POWER data… of course, becuase I dont have the speed info…. however I was expecting that this app might let you inform of the dents in your cranks, so it could figure out the speed with the cadence…. whatever…
So! how the hell do i get the speed info?? does the trainer have a magnet inside and you should have a speed meter outside the plastic and will work??? otherwise…. what should i do?
Thanks a lot
If you attach the speed sensor to/near the drive side side of the case, you’ll find there’s a magnet inside. It trips the sensor.
THanks! could i move the Garmin cadence/speed sensor towards the back of the frame and just get the speed data? in this way, would the TrainerRoad.com will give me power data?
Please let me know if possible to stick Garmin gsc 10 to turbo muin and get reading into trainer road that way. Means i could sell the elite sensor I bought.
For me as I have a stages power meter and HRM strap is probably don’t even care about distance or speed. All about working power Zones.
Oh, there’s definitely no technical issue in doing it. That works fine. The question is whether or not TR takes the baked in speed value from the GSC-10, and if that wheel circumference differs from the Elite one (which is 2070).
Ray how’d you find the trainer road virtual power estimate? My FTP test when redone with stages would suggest a 10% over estimate vs reality.
I haven’t done a comparison with TR yet. I might do it tomorrow. I’ve been mostly focused on trying to understand the differences between the native (updated) app and actual power meters.
Hi Ray (and others;)
I have just bought the muin and am now wondering about two things:
1. The trainer makes a sound as if an air bubble is traped in the fluid (at least it sounds like an air bubble on lower speed). And
2. I have the feeling that the required power to build up a specific “speed” is higher than on the road (measuring the speed by using the flywheel magnet and a wheel size as on the road).
So what do you (muin owners) think? Do you have the same airbubble sound? And has somebody already made some power comparison for the “same speeds” on the road and on the trainer?
Cheers
HT
There is huge difference with resistance at higher speeds, look at the power curve on the box. It says 2000W for 60kph, most of us can easily hit 60 on flats, but few can top 2000W. And 40kph is like 700W
Great. Thanks for the Info!
But what about the sound? Do you experience the same ‘bubbly’ sound?
Cheers
Ht
Not sure about the bubbly sound, but when starting from zero there is a swishing liquid sound when the turn-wheel starts displacing the liquid, maybe you might call that bubbly?
Well that could be …
I thought that the containment would be completely filled with the fluid keeping it silent – like stirring in a cup, when not touching the cup the stirring is completely silent, right? ;)
I’ll contact Elite to be on the safe side, if I get any reply I’ll post it.
cheers
HT
PS: is here any possibility of uploading a file (m4u or alike?), I could upload a sample…
Hey HTor, any news on the bubbly sound? Mine does the same at when starting and is far from quiet as well. Makes me wonder if the fluid should be topped up or something.
Cheers,
Maarten
well, I sent them a sample at low rpm and they say it sounds normal… they asked for a high rpm sample, but so far i was only outside on my bike ;)
keep you posted :)
ht
My experience using Muin for a bout a month now:
-It’s quite silent, but by no means completely.
-It has plenty resistance, and the resistance is very progressive. You want power sprints? You got power sprints!
-It seems to have a short warm-up period for the resistance to work normally. Using my power2max cranks I compared the watts shown in the app to the ones on my garmin and for the first 5-10min there was a huge (20-40w) difference but after that it went down to 1-3% difference when between 100-500W.
-The watts shown in the app have a huge error when doing full on sprints, it showed me doing 1900-2000W, when the real wattage according to my p2m cranks was 1500-1600W. But seems to be very accurate at lower speeds.
Just another thing: I have neither a powermeter nor am I using the Elite app. So, my only estimation of power are my legs and my exhaustion ;)
Probably, my question before was ambiguous, I was wondering if at e.g. 20km/h on the trainer (using the build in magnet and my standard bike computer, with same wheel settings) would represent the same speed on the street?
I feel like doing ~24km/h on the trainer is like 30km/h on the street….
Cheers
HT
20kph is 150W. 150W is X kph on the street; depends on wind, equipment, incline/decline, humidity…etc
Thanks,
that works out quite well with my estimation. I’ve found this:
link to gribble.org
stating 150W = 30km/h. Now saying that I have not that kind of bike, clothes, etc. used for the calculation gives me maybe something like the 27km/h i’ve estimated.
Would you mind giving me a couple of datapoints (power/ “trainerspeed”) when you use your powermeter?, than I could calculate a virtual wheelsize compensating this discrepance (hopefully;)
Thanks again and best regards :)
HT
20kph 150w, 22,2kph 200W 28,7kph 400W. I need to check other speeds later. At the moment I use my CX with muin and I don’t have powermeter on that.
Well from that you see that resistance is a lot more progressive than on the road. 400W on the flats is more than 40kph
Just in case it was missed…I provided real power curve data across a few power meters up above in a .CSV file.
Just got mine today, but there is no sensor key in mine?
The muin only consist of the trainer itself and the “spokemagnet” if you want to call it that way. everything else has to be bought seperately … :/
HT
sorry may be I missed it , but where is th cvs file
Reply #57 (currently), or, here: link to dcrainmaker.com
thx for the hint, but I am still confused with your data. Are the reported speed data of the fit files really in MPH?
This would lead to ~80W with 19MPH (or 30km/h). If I compare this to my power values with the Turbo Muin and the App I’ll get 100W for 25km/h and 160W for 28km/h.
Not to talk about the ones Elite provides, which somehow relates 21km/h to 160W and 30km/h to 500W.
So Im totally puzzeled now!
I solved it! My really low power values were coming from a wrong S/N (Still used the 10100 from the reply #64.) Even with the new version 1.1.1 Now I am using the right S/N of my Turbo Muin and get power readings somehow in the range of DCRainmaker’s fit files.
No I can finally try to determine my real FTP. Hopefully this time higher than 130 Watts :)
As far as i See it now the power required on the muin to drive a specific Speed is about 1.4 times higher than on the street – comparing ray’s data to calculated values.
Further, it seems as if john’s values are a little higher than ray’s or vice versa.
Also the question arises if the calculated values are somewhere close to “real” power values when driving on the street… Maybe someone has some values from a flat, wind-free ride?
But anyway, it seems as if my plan of using some sort of effective wheel circumference to counter the different power values, is not going to work. My cycling computer only takes circumferences up to ~2,3m …
Anyone any idea how I can get a kind of ‘real’ speed reading on the muin?
Cheers
Ht
I’m looking to get Muin but I am confused with all this Ant+ stuff. My understanding is that it won’t link to a Garmin as it isn’t standard Ant+. However is it possible to get the power data from the Muin without an iPod/iphone (i.e. a PC or Android adapter)?
It would seem strange to alienate anyone who deosn’t have an Apple project?
Did the final review ever come out?
Hi All,
Had anyone else experienced any difficulty in loading their bike back on the trainer once you’ve attached an 11speed Shimano cassette?
I feel I’m missing a beat our perhaps some spacers?
It seems my Trek Madone 4.9 rear forks are a bit too wide for the trainer. Our is there a simple fix here.
Appreciate any guidance.
Cheers
I have a Trek Madone 5.2 and have had no problems mounting or dismounting the bike on the Muin. However you do need to make sure you use the spacer that is supplied with the trainer as per the instructions.
All in all I’m really impressed except for it not recognising an ANT feed from a Garmin device.
Thanks Brain – I’ll give it another crack. Unless I have things around the wrong way – I might need to get some additional spacers.
Cheers
I have the Turbo Muin, quark pwr meter (so I dont need the elite sensor, or cadendce, or app) and am using the garmin GSC-10 speed sensor taped to the side of the Muin in the correct location (I measured it). I’ve adjusted the Garmin edge 500 for the manual wheel size of 2070mm. I get crazy low speed values. My wattage is correct as it comes directly from the quark, but my speed from the sensor is 12-18mph. Even when I’m killing it at over 600w the speed wont get over 20mph. I’ve played with the manual wheel size adjustments (in the garmin edge 500) to see if that would help and it does very little. Use a different speed sensor with ant+ maybe?? Help! I love this thing but I’m stuck on the speed sensor. Everything else is golden…
Hi Christian,
your muin and everything else works fine! Maybe have a look on my previous posts
link to dcrainmaker.com
to
link to dcrainmaker.com.
It seems as if the muin would be a heavy friction bike (say your wheels are rubbing the frame/ mudguard or whatever – that kind of heavy friction), if you want to compare it to “streetvalues”.
Using a different wheel circumference would bring one to something like 2.8 metres which my bike computer isn’t capable of – maybe yours is…
If you find a better (or just working) solution, let me know!
Cheers
HT
Good comments everyone. I am just about to unpack mine and have this question: I do not have a power meter and have no smart phone or apps ability (yes, out of date I know).
I would like to know how to use my current cateye wireless speed/distance computer to register for riding this winter. Or, I have an old with wires speed/distance computer I could rig up.
Any suggestions would be appreciated as I am not very bright in this department.
Thank you!
Unfortunately Turbo Elite Muin not work with Garmin Ant +, either with applications like Kinomap, Bkool, Zwift etc. I like the roller but has good connectivity features.
sorry, has not connectivity with software. thanks
Well, the ‘spokesmagnet’ is included in the flywheel…. so you make it what you want: You can attach whatever speed sensor that fits you well (independant of brand/ connection standards). If you did that you will get somthing like speed (+ cadence, power, heartrate) which you can feed into some software. Of curse you’ll need a phone/tablet to run the elite-app, but there are a couple of more pieces of software that can be used.
@Chris: you have to throw away your spokesmagnet, attach the sensor at the flywheel – best to get the muin running and find your spot moving the sensor while monitoring your computer. And then, it’s up to your pedalling ;)
If you want to use some software, you’ll need a usb dongle (to get the speed sensor data into your pc). I would strongly recommend checking which protocoll is supported (e.g. ANT+ trainerroad).
Cheers
HT
Thanks HT, I think I get it. Put the sensor on the housing (the plastic cover) on the cassette side and play with it til I get a reading. Then off I go. I appreciate your answer to a simple question. Cheers and happy riding!
Anyone know if this news is true? A new Elite Turbo Muin for October with full wireless.
” Elite have given the new trainer full wireless connectivity. With their own app the trainer will display all sorts of data via ANT+, including power, on an iPhone, iPad or iPod. The Elite Turbo Muin will cost £499.99 when it’s available in October”.
If true, someone knows where this sale.
I think they have a new ‘Real Turbo Muin’ product coming out where the resistance can be controlled by their training software. I don’t know if they are going to discontinue the ‘Turbo Muin’ product though
I’m thinking about getting the Turbo Muin and I want to run it with Trainerroad.
What else do I need? A ant+ speed transmitter I believe? Which, some Elite original, or which ever?
I read post #106 and got a little confused:
“The question is whether or not TR takes the baked in speed value from the GSC-10, and if that wheel circumference differs from the Elite one (which is 2070).”
Do you need to ajust wheel size settings somewhere if not using Elite’s own, or?
Can someone clarify please.
I am using TR with a Suunto USB Stick and B’Twin Cadence Sensor (I have a GSC-10 but don’t use that as I’d have to move it and due to the shape of it you can’t pick up speed and cadence from the Muin).
I assume TR takes into account the flywheel size as it asks what trainer you have.
Elite’s sensor use code Ant+ so if you buy that you have to stick with their Ant+ dongle and their app.
Hi, I have a few pre purchase questions that I have asked Elite support about but I’m not getting any clear answers do to the language barrier.
I plan on purchasing the Elite Misuro Blu Bluetooth Sensor and the Turbo Muin. Do you need to connect a magnet to the wheel on the Turbo Muin or does the magnet come installed? I’m confused by the instruction manual for the Misuro Blu Sensor because it only shows two basic drawings with no text.
Does the My E- Training iPad App work well including the videos?
Do the videos in the My E-Training App speed up and slow down depending on your pedal speed?
I see that you can record a ride and use it as a training video. Do you think the new Sony Action Cam with GPS would be compatible?
Thanks in advance and I hope this will help other make an informed purchase.
Does anybody has the New Elite Real Turbo Muin ? I’m curious to know how open is it, if it would allow me to control resistance and read cadence from other apps ?
As of today, it’s not open, only their app can control it. However, I checked a week or so ago and they’re still hoping to hit roughly the end of the year for supporting the ANT+ trainer profile. If that happens, then they’ll be quite open.
hello everybody, is there anybody here using a garmin edge 500 on their muin?? if there is…. how can i pair my speed cadence sensor on my muin? where is the position of garmins sensor so it can have a readings?.
I made this quick video to show the position of the sensor. The magnet is pre-installed. As someone mentioned, you will probably need to rotate your pedals and hold the sensor in the approximate location and then fine tune the position.
link to youtube.com
I do not have the trainer yet and I would like to know how well the “My Real Videos” work please.
Hi,
My primary concern is the silence and I have decided to buy a muin.
I am not a very technical person and also I am not very good in using software. So apart from the software, are there big differences between muin and real muin?
Thanks
Huge difference. Real Muin is electronically controlled (the resistance can be changed by an app, to simulate courses/routes/wattage/etc..). Whereas the regular Muin you control resistance by shifting gears on your bike.
Is the information correct, that the Turbo Muin got a marginal update of the flywheel in wheigt from 5,9 to 6,9Kg?
Anybody knows?
PS.: Just found in a german shop but until now not to be seen at Elite:
The Elite Misuro+ Power Ant+ Sensor for fitting at the Turbo Muin for use with ANT+ compatible devices
link to bike24.de
Price 50€.
This is pointing to the great opening of the REAL devices to ANT+ (I hope)!?
Regards
henry
I would like to know how well the videos in the My E-Training App work if anyone has actually used this app. The video part of the app is one of the main reasons I plan to buy this unit but I sure wish I could get some feedback on this. Basciaccly I just want to make sure the video portion of the app works as advertized. Thanks
Is it only me (using 11-25 cassete) Muin has so much more resistance compared to riding on outdoor roads (around 90 rpm). If I will switch down 19 (or below) teeth It is like riding against really-really strong wind and I am using my smaller chainring.
Is it supposed to be so different compared to outdoor experience?
YES, have a look on the power graphs of the Turbo Muin.
the first 15 minutes for getting “in heat” I use 34-27.
My advice for miost trainers: Best works a shimano cassete for juniors: CS-6600 (14-25, 15-25, 16-27) !
Thanks for the info. Till it get my hands on more suitable cassette I will use my MTB instead of road bike with the Turbo Muin as MTB (wider gear ratio range) offers a bit more pleasing/suitable resistance with this trainer.
Thanks Henry that is good to know. Have you tried using the video part of the My E-Training App for the Turbo Muin?
Not yet, used it only with my Garmin Edge, but if you can wait, next wekend I will tell you more. I’m off for some days……
Hey Henry, Yes Sir I can wait and I look forward to learning about your experience with the app. This review has been excellent but one of my main questions is about the app is about the video part. For my purposes not getting board is right at the top of the list along with it being quiet and I would be disappointed to learn after the fact that the videos don’t work very well. I may still get it even if that turns out to be the case but I would really like to know a bit more about that. I looked at the Shimano 6600 cassette and I would also like to know what gear ratio you would recommend for a beginner rider that doesn’t have much power yet. Thanks!
Cassete: Important is, between the gears less teeth as possible! The greatest ring should be 27 or higher, depending on your big chain rings. I think you have a 32 or 34 chain ring. So I would say the Ultegra 6600 cassete 16-27 should be ok!
App: I will test it next weekend with an Android app (don’t use iphones).
On my bike I use a Garmin Edge1000 with speed, cadence and heartrate monitor, but speed will be taken via Turbo Muin. My Powermeter will be a 4iiii. So I don’t need any data from the Turbo muin except the speed (what’s not important). Powerdata of the Turbo muin is only calculated and there not realy on the point. Using a powermeter at my bike is more effective, on the road and on the Turbo Muin.
My Intension is to connect all with an ANT+ USB Stick with my PC and there also watch the Videos.
Training software will be trainerroad.
Hi Henry,
My crankset is the Oval Concepts 520 Alloy Compact 50/34T so I plan on getting the Ultegra 6600 cassette 16-27. Thanks again.
I understand your setup in general and I get that the Turbo Muin’s power data alone may not be accurate enough for experienced cyclist. I plan on purchasing their Misuro Blu – Bluetooth sensor and I’ve been wondering if there was a cadence sensor, I assume their app only requires the speed sensor.
My plan is to use this trainer in an upstairs apartment for the sole reason of just getting in better bike riding shape and maybe help keep a few pounds off. On a 20 mile run I’m only averaging 13.5 MPH and I think that’s mainly because I need to build muscle but all I know is that I am slow. There are some hills on my routes but nothing tough. I know if the trainer is very loud that I’m not going to risk disturbing my neighbor and I think the videos would be a big plus in keeping my mind occupied. I may even try video recording the few routes that I ride.
Thanks,
Bill
Hi Bill!
Sorry, but I’m afraid I can’t help you. My Android phone works only with JellyBean and Jelly Bean is not compatible with the Elite apps (V4.3 and higher is necessary).
I made already several hours on the Turbo Muin with the bike sensors (TF+HR) plus a ANT+ speed sensor (Sigma), fitted with tape on the Turbo Muin.
This combination works fine for me and GoldenCheetah (via ANT+ USB-Stick V2 from Garmin).
Nothing more makes sense, because it’s not possible to control the Turbo Muin via software or video. This feature only has the Real Turbo Muin or the Kickr.
If interested, my crank combination is 48/34 with 11-23.
If you have further more questions, don’t hold them back ;)
regards
henry
Hi Henry,
I just got off the phone with a company in the US that’s a dealer for Elite and my questions regarding the video portion of the My E-Training App stumped him but then he asked a coworker and they remembered that about a year ago they worked a bike show and had a blue tooth sensor connected to the Turbo Muin and as far as they can remember the videos would speed up or slow down via pedaling speed. He said that some of the free videos were good and some were too unstable. One example he mentioned was a mountain bike rider with a camera mounted on his head caused too much movement. He did emphasize that there is no resistance changes like the newer model that requires a PC. The man did mention that the video portion of the app does require one of Elite’s proprietary sensors. I find that a bit strange because he said he did use a different blue tooth speed & cadence sensor and it worked with the My E-Training App.
Besides the video part do you find the My-E Training App useful and do you recommend this trainer?
I guess I will have to just take my chances and hope that the video portion works as advertized. I plan on getting it next month and will answer the questions I have here for anyone that may be interested.
Thanks!
Bill
Henry,
Please disregard the question about if you find the app useful. I re-read your comment and see that your jellyfish version is not compatible.
Bill
Hi Bill,
I’m absolutely sure, that the App can’t have effect on the Turbo Muin. The resistance can be manipulated only by shifting your bike. Video speed controlled by cadence makes absolutely no sense.
What you are looking for is a Real Turbo Muin or the Wahoo Kickr!
There are several Tacx trainers, which are controlled by app/Software, but these are using the rear wheel.
I will never use such a trainer, since I know the difference between the direct drive and the Tacxs models.
Video: In fact there are a lot of videos on the market with realy low quality. Good video > high price. I didn’t found something else.
Regards
henry
Hi Henry,
First thanks a lot for helping me and I did not make myself clear. I agree with you 100%. The Turbo Muin does not have any computer or app controlled resistance changing function. I do realize that the new Real Turbo Muin does have this ability if you use a PC. Since Elite offers the Real Turbo Muin with PC / DVD videos and the Turbo Muin that simply uses a free app along with free videos with no resistance control via the App it does get confusing.
I understand that the Elite Misuro Blu sensor when connected to the Turbo Muin does control the video playback speed depending on how fast you pedal. My question is how well does this free video part of the iPad App actually work in real life.
I appreciate your thoughts on how much you like the direct drive system and about all the different video options out there. I agree and hope that the free videos on the app will work but I will add to this review after I get mine in about a month. I should also mention that there is a yearly fee for using the app which cost about 10 US dollars.
If anyone else has experience with the free videos on the app I would appreciate your thoughts too.
Bill
I am interesting in buying the Muin but i have a question about distance. I use Trainer Road and have a Stages power meter on my bike, with a garmin speed/sensor on the frame. With this set-up will ‘distance’ be logged on Trainer Road or do i need something else, or is tracking distance not possible on the Muin?
Guys,
Any idea how to use both 10s and 11s bikes on the same Turbo Muin? Need replacing the casette each time changing bikes?
I was planning on reviewing the free Video part of the My E-Training app but I’ve decided to go with Cycleops Super Magneto Pro. It may not be as quiet but it is suppose to be a very quite trainer for a lot less money plus the Cycleops Virtual Video Training App looks a lot better although you do have to pay for it. Also: When I was ready to purchase the Turbo Muin I realized that the Bluetooth sensor is not available and that made me wonder a bit more about the app along with the fact that I have not seen any user reviews regarding how well the free video portion of the iPad app actually works. Good Luck!
Hi guys, I have Muin for a month, in sale around 450 eur. The new REAL is really overpriced. Yesterday, I finally got bluetooth cadence+speed sensor Echowell(Elite). Paired with iPad app is great idea and I avoid old ANT+ (it cost more) . Also having Polar H7 Smart BT HR belt works excellent. I am using MTB 42/32/22 and 9s 11-28 cassette. As somebody pointed in outdoors I really have higher speed with my 7.8kg S-Works MTB, so Muin is harder for my legs. To be honest can’t imagine crank set 52 etc. with road bike. Max power I got approx.606W at 165bpm.
And because on web is almost no info about installation I add some more, hope it will be useful.
Magnet is of course also on right side of flywheel, I installed speed sensor like user manual refers to ANT+ on right chain stay. The speed sensor heads upper side of the magnet. Cadence I left on the right side too, because I have on left side old cadence sensor for Polar watches. As someone wrote, I have not noticed a problem between the chain and the magnet on the crank. The sensor in iPad Bluetooth settings does not appear! Just in the application My-E-Traning give “automatic search” and pairing is performed. but it isnecessary to turn the crank to turn on the sensor itself.
hey DCR! have you actually done an in-depth review of the Elite Real Muin?
thanks a lot for your hard work on sport tech!
DM
Are we going to see an Elite Turbo Muin review?
Hi Ray,
I don’t care much about the exact values of power (accuracy), but rather about the precision of the device. It is supposed to be very precise by definition, isn’t it? (I mean, the way the power is estimated…always same values, right?)
Please note this:
Elite relase Misuro Blu+ a new sensor for this trainer who have dual band (BT + Ant+), without magnet.
This sensor have: Spd – Power (Watt).
Don’t have cadence. For cadence need old cable sensor for this trainer who it’s long 20cm. and have magnet on crank.
All available on the elite shop.
I got the Muin at the start of he month but never actually used it in earnest until last night. For my interval I was happy with the noise (or lack of as I live in a block of flats) but I found the resistance quite strong (equivalent to 8 or 9 on my old tacx) and I had to slot the bike in the 39t to get a cadence over 90rpm which meant the speed was low. Perhaps a higher speed would have been a better test of noise :-/
where do you place that little magnet that came in the pack?
The little magnet in the pack it’s only for other elite trainer, Turbo Muin have a internal magnet on flywheel. You only need put Misuro Blu with velcro on turbo muin, like describe in the instruction.
Hi, I got a turbo muin recently and have been having trouble with the drive belt slipping. I tightened it which helped a bit, but I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem.
Should I use the two spacers (that are suplied by Elite) when using a Cassette 10 speed?
thanks,
Jan
After almost two years of having their flagship Turbo Muin B+ trainer, the company is not able to fix most fundamental bugs in their REAL software, communicating with them leads to nowhere, customer support non-existent.
I still believe the hardware itself is great, but their software makes it sometimes unusable.
Calibration: the trainer is off about 30 watts, compared to reliable Quarq power meter. The „resistance calibration value“ at settings menu cannot be changed, it always stays at 1,00 – even after I change it to another value and click OK, when I select this setting next time, the value is 1,00 again, wattage still off!
The software freezes quite often (I have the latest version of software run on Windows 7 machine) – e.g. when screensaver goes on, all workout data up to this point is lost, software needs restart. Imagine this, sweaty after one hour of hard workout that cannot be finished!
After running computer evaluation from Real software, which says that it will run properly, message appears that computer is not good, cannot be closed and software does not work any more.
Geo-located programs do not work, no picture or 3D map on screen, no elevation profile!
When using heart rate, the on screen message that I am slowing down appears at the situation (heart rate above required level) when I should be actually slowing down!
And many more…
If someone knows about third-party software which could run this over 1000 Euro trainer, pls. let me know.
I need help does anyone know belt size Elite turbo muin
My trainer belt was Broken so i dont have any idea for size belt,