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I’m DC RAINMAKER…
I swim, bike and run. Then, I come here and write about my adventures. It’s as simple as that. Most of the time. If you’re new around these parts, here’s the long version of my story.
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Sorry to hear about the bad luck but Im t curious how come the pedal/crank didnt stick to your foot?(assuming your foot was clipped in at the time)
BTW:Looks like an awesome place to ride and a good atmosphere too with all those cyclist/triathletes!
The same happened to me. The root cause was a mis aligned crankset. It slowly push out the crank as it is turning sideways. Slightly. I had a cervelo r3 and the rotor crank was born mis aligned. The bike shop replaced mine with sram red for free.
Hi Ray,
I’ve had almost the same thing happen to me with a Power2Max on a Rotor crank. Mine was a Rotor Agilis. It turned out that the bolt on the left side crank turned a bit difficult (out of the factory). I used a torque wrench to tighten it. It indicated that I had used to right amount of torque. However, and this is the important part, I should have turned it more, because when I did that after having lost it during the ride, it started turning easier after a few turns, before going tight again. I’ve never had this problem since.
I was lucky that the crank fell off while climbing Mont Ventoux at about 12km/h :-). The unluck part was that it happened while I was on vacation about 1000km from home, and the crank cap was nowhere to be found. Luckily my wife had told me to also bring my old standard crankset, so I was able to continue cycling after having changed cranks.
cheers,
Ilja
That has happened to me before… I wasn’t to far from home, so I rode with with one leg… Not easy
Not a crank but I did lose a pedal at speed out of the saddle that resualted in some summer ice skating on pavement. Glad that you stayed right side up.
Parisians don’t shave their legs?
You’re just too powerful for modern technology Ray…
Lucky you didn’t eat asphalt. Nice save.
It looks in one fo the pictures as there is a gap in teh crank, meaning the crank cracked?
Had same thing happen in the middle of Ironman Pocono 70.3 last year. Must be an FSA, they have known issues with that. link to bit.ly
Upgraded to a DuraAce and no issues since.
Maybe the Power2Max power meter was offended by your Quarq water bottle.
So did the crack actually snap or just come off its mount on account of a bolt that was incorrectly tensioned?
I’m not entirely sure to be honest. As others above have pointed out, it seems like this is a semi-common issue with the Rotor cranks. In looking carefully at the bolt, I can’t see any obvious cracking, however – it’s hard to tell.
I’m headed back to the states Friday, so I’m bringing the crank-arm with me to try and see if a good bike shop can figure it out. My primary concern is that it doesn’t happen again. If you tighten to the spec, yet you have to tigthen beyond it and then again (as others imply above) – that seems fraught with failure potential. But maybe that’s just me. Personally, my only dog in this fight is ensuring that I don’t end up face-first on the pavement next time.
When standing and coasting (if you do such a thing), do you have your right foot forward? If so, this will cause the left crank to loosen and fall off over time. This is a known defect of all the splined type 3 piece crank/bottom brackets. See link to sheldonbrown.com
@quindazzi: Interesting! I won’t necessarily stand and coast, but going over rough terrain I do partially unweight the saddle, and then the foot that’s forward depends on both habit and whether or not there’s a right or left bend ahead.
Checked the crank nut on my GXP crank, and it needed about 1/4 turn to tighten… maybe a dot of blue or purple Loctite will fix this?
Just to be clear- this effects only 3 the older style 3 piece cranks (separate left and right crank, bottom bracket with splines.) Looking at Ray’s pics a little more closely it looks like he may have the newer 2 piece style where the chain ring side is part of the spindle and the bottom bracket bearing are outboard. Hard to tell. I notice you didn;t post a pic of the interface between the crank arm and bottom bracket- do you have one.
Also, forgot to say sorry you had a failure, and i’m glad you are okay
Hi Ray,
Sad news. The crank and other stuff can be easily replaced. Not the same with road rash and fractured or broken bones. Good to know you’re ok.
HI Ray,
I also use the 3d+ with a Power2Max. What’s strange about your failure is that the non-drive side came off. The NDS is already bonded to the axle from the factory. The bolt that secures it shouldn’t be opened at all according to the manual, so I would suspect there was something wrong from the beginning. The crank installation is done through the drive side.
Good luck in sorting it out, I would reach out to Rotor directly.
Best
N
Hmm, in my case the drive side came bonded, not the NDS.
I was hoping to sort it out this week in Seattle with some local bike shops – but none of them know what to do. So, back to France I go, will have to ring up Rotor. I believe they’re in Germany, so perhaps it won’t be too bad.
Here’s a few more photos:
link to sites.google.com
link to sites.google.com
link to sites.google.com
I believe at this juncture I’m missing the “o-ring” that goes between the crank arm and the bottom bracket area. I have an extra cap. And of course, the nut on the crank-arm itself is questionable at this point in my opinion.
Any thoughts are appreciated! In general, I’m putting this in the ‘pain in the butt’ category.
Lost Rotor Crankarm – Had this same thing happen to me last night. Can you tell me what you did to keep it from happening again? The powermeter was a gift from my kids for father’s day and I hate not to keep using it, but I don’t want to end up face down on the pavement either. Thanks in advance.
This has happened to me on my last 3 x rides during long ascents where the NDS crank has come off.
I was in Switzerland earlier this week so ended up having to buy a Shimano crank to get me going again – not a happy boy at all :-(